The Royal Presidio
of San Diego

1769 to 1835


PRESIDIO TOUR

In this tour see Presidio Park today compared to what existed there in the past, the ruins of which can still be seen.  Eleven sites are selected to provide a comprehensive picture of the Spanish fort that stood on Presidio Hill above San Diego Bay.

view of Presidio Park

map of park & Spanish presidio

 

 (click on numbered circles or on menu)
List of Presidio Tour Stops 
1. Main Gate and Barracks 
2. Blacksmith 
3. Houses of Soldiers & Settlers 
4. Casa de Zuniga 
5. Padre Statue
 6. Later Commandante's House 
 7. The Plaza de Armas 
 8. Warehouses 
 9. Chapel & Padre's Quarters 
 10. Colonial Kitchen 
 11. Gun Battery

 

 1.  Main Gate and Barracks 

Welcome to the San Diego Presidio.  Join us in a tour through the west coast's first military encampment and learn how the Spanish Empire established a stronghold which later became the city of San Diego.  The main gate, at first a primitive entrance way made of branches, was later strengthened with wooden beams.  Unmarried soldiers lived dormitory- style in barracks adjacent to the main entrance.  Three soldiers stood watch in a guardhouse where prisoners were held. 

 

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2.  Blacksmith 

Artisans were at a premium in San Diego, a place considered uncivilized compared to the cosmopolitan Mexico City.  Nevertheless, incentives such as land grants, cattle, and promise of a regular salary attracted a few blacksmiths to the northern frontier.  Blacksmiths fashioned jangles for horses, repaired weapons like pistols and muskets, hammered out nails, shoed horses, and tinkered with kitchen utensils.  Metal was in short supply and equipment had to be recycled and re-used. 

 

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 3.  Houses of Soldiers & Settlers 

The north wing, which began as a row of thatched huts, was later rebuild according to royal regulations.  Each soldier received a plot of land large enough for a "row" type house for himself and his family within the north wing.  As the population of the presidio expanded, soldiers utilized their back yards for additional sleeping areas.  First shaded by a ramada or thatched branch roof, the back yard area was later enclosed. 

 

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 4.  Casa de Zuniga (Earlier Commandante's House) 

Lieutenant Jose de Zuniga, a criollo (of pure Spanish blood born in New Spain), was a respected leader.  He assumed command of the San Diego Presidio in 1782.  His large ten-room home included an office, formal living and dining rooms, patio, bedrooms, and even an indoor bathroom, the first of its kind in California.  Letters between Zuniga and his mother, who lived in Mexico City, show us Zuniga's interests in gardening, painting, fine wines and even English books. 

 

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 5.  Padre Statue 

The Padre Statue represents the influence of the Catholic Church on early efforts to claim Alta California for Spain.  Standing in the patio area of the later commandante's mansion, the statue reminds us that Spaniards strove to transform natives into "gente de razon," people of reason.  Once conformed to the Spanish ideals of Catholicism, baptism, marriage and family-life, Indians would become full-fledged Spanish citizens ready to defend the territory from possible invasions by English and Russian forces. 

 

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 6.  Later Commandante's House 

Viewed from the sea, the commandante's house stood out on presidio hill, an elegant structure in sharp contrast to the small adobe houses of early pueblo San Diego.  From 1825-1828, while Jose Maria Echeandia governed from the commandante's mansion, San Diego became the state capital. 

 

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 7.  The Plaza de Armas 

The Plaza de Armas lay below the later commandante's house, a central meeting place for presidio soldier/settlers and their families as well as foreign visitors and missionaires.  Bull and bear fights provided entertainment for presidio residents who watched from rooftops.  Once a bull actually jumped on top of the chapel roof, crashed to the floor and gored a hole through the wall.  Leatherjacket soldiers performed military drills and jousted with each other in a game called canas (canes).  Using long bamboo canes as mock lances, the soldiers attempted to knock each other off their horses.  Whoever remained on horseback 'til the end was proclaimed winner.  In December, citizens gathered in the Plaza de Armas to watch costumed performers present the Christmas pastorela. 

 

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 8.  Warehouses

Inside the warehouses at the southeast corner of the presidio walls were bags of grain, dried beef, beans and casks of wine and brandy.  Chocolate, sugar and spices sent by ship from San Blas provided a welcome treat to presidio residents who relied on visits from abroad for contact with the outside world. 

 

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   9.  Chapel & Padre's Quarters 

Every Sunday men, women and children gathered for mass at the presidio chapel.  Singers stood in a choir loft above the main congregation area.  Priests baptized babies in the baptistry wing at the south side of the building. On special relgious holidays members of the congregation reaceived communion, though this practice was reserved for preists throughout the rest of the year because of limited supplies of communal bread and wine. In the bestry the priest donned special robes for Christmas, Easter and holy days.  Behind the chapel stood the missionaries' living quarters with additional space available to accommodate visiting friars from other missions along El Camino Real. 

 

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 10.  Colonial Kitchen 

Communal cooking took place in the plaza, especially in the early days of settlement.  Women baked bread and beef or mutton in the orno (oven), a domed adobe structure covered with white lime plaster and ventilated in back with three holes. Soldiers or their wives cooked tortillas on the comal (griddle) on an estufa (stove).  A tripod of three iron stakes stood over an open fire.  On one curved ring hung a caldo (iron pot) full of beans, corn, chunks of meat and whatever vegetables pioneers could sustain in their garden plots outside the presidio walls. 

 

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 11.  Gun Battery

    With its rammed earth four feet thick walls, the gun battery housed from four to eight cannons to defend the presidio in case of attack from the sea.  Foreign sea captains like George Vancouver expressed shock at the presidio's lack of military defenses.  In 1790 officer Miguel Costanso implemented a royal order to fortify an area below the main entrance with space for cannons and a supply of cannonballs.  Though the cannons at Fort Guijarros exchanged fire with the American trading vessel Lelia Byrd in 1803, San Diego Presidio cannons were never fired in anger and eventually rusted from lack of maintenance.  A 1992 archaeology team uncovered 250 cannonballs buried near the commandante's mansion--perhaps stashed when Hippolyte Bouchard's pirates threatened to raid the San Diego Presidio on their way back to South America. 

     

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